During one of my first weekends in Saudi Arabia, I finally made it after numerous failed attempts to secure a visa, including having to replace my passport at one point. My family had already been in the country for a few months, spending most of their time traveling to Bahrain and lounging by the hotel pool. They were eager to explore more, and since I was the only one who spoke Arabic, they were waiting for me to lead the way.
Their plan was to hire a car and a driver from the hotel and head to the Empty Quarter, also known as Rub Al-Khali. I thought it was a bit crazy. Located a few hours from our base, the Empty Quarter is the largest continuous sand desert in the world. While stunning, it’s also quite perilous without proper planning. Yet, there was no planning for this trip—not even a clear sense of direction. I decided to tag along mainly to keep them safe and help steer the expedition.
Our destination was Al Hofuf, a major city in the Al-Ahsa region. Al-Ahsa is renowned for its vast oasis and nearly a million date palm trees. The dates from this area are famous throughout the Eastern Province. Al-Ahsa also boasts great cultural significance and is believed by local legend to be the resting place of Layla and Majnoon, who are somewhat analogous to Romeo and Juliet, but from a much older story. We discovered that Al Hofuf is home to some of the kindest people we met in Saudi Arabia.
The city has a lot to see, but unfortunately, we arrived on a Friday when most places were closed. Additionally, recent attacks had heightened security, making our driver apprehensive about visiting certain areas. One advantage of our diverse group was that most people didn’t realize we were American, helping us keep a low profile during these tense times. Despite it being a Friday, we managed to visit a few places, although they were much quieter than on other days.
Jabel Qarah
For panoramic views of the city, we headed to Jabel Qarah. Although it was technically closed, we parked and wandered past the barriers, hoping nobody would mind. There are also caves to explore, but we couldn’t venture far. Nevertheless, the views over the town were beautiful.
Ibrahim Fort
It’s easy to forget how vast the Ottoman Empire once was, extending its reach into the Arabian Peninsula. I was surprised at how well-preserved Ibrahim Fort was, considering it was built in the 16th century and later renovated. Unfortunately, it was closed, but it occupies a prominent spot in the city, and I hope to visit again soon.
Qaisariah Souq
Finding authentic old markets in Saudi Arabia can be rare, as many have been replaced by modern malls or soulless concrete shop fronts. Qaisariah Souq, with its wooden doors and windows, is exactly the kind of market you want to explore in the Arab world. Though it was closed during our visit, it’s definitely worth stopping by on a future trip.
Lunch at a Local Restaurant
One of the day’s highlights was lunch at a local restaurant. With help from our driver and some friendly locals, we found a spot to try traditional food. For my colleagues, it was their first experience eating with their hands while sitting on the ground. The locals were incredibly accommodating and seemed amused by a group of Americans visiting their restaurant. One gentleman was particularly friendly, engaging us in conversation about our experiences in Saudi Arabia and the US. I helped translate between English and Arabic, and he even gifted us some Oud (a woody fragrance) and a Quran. It was a memorable end to a wonderful weekend in the Kingdom.
Practical Information
Traveling to Saudi Arabia can be tricky without a visa, usually obtained for business or family visits. Religious tourism visas often don’t cover many areas outside the western region. However, if you already have a visa, you’ll find this information helpful.
Hofuf/Al-Ahsa is about a 1.5-hour drive from Dammam, where the nearest major airport is located. It’s also a doable drive from Bahrain, provided the causeway isn’t congested.
Hotels
There’s a beautiful Intercontinental Hotel in Hofuf. Although we didn’t stay there, we stopped by for information and directions.
Currently, the US Consulate advises against traveling to Hofuf/Al-Ahsa. However, I found it to be a welcoming, friendly, and safe place. As with anywhere, stay aware of your surroundings and check security updates before your visit.