Northern Cyprus remains an enigma to many, its history shrouded in mystery and intrigue. Once isolated from the world, this captivating region has become more accessible in recent years, inviting travelers to explore its rich narrative and stunning landscapes.
The island endured significant division following a military coup in the 1970s, leading to ongoing tensions between the Greek and Turkish communities. However, in the past decade, border crossings have become routine, and there are even discussions about reunifying the island. While a full recount of the history is beyond this post’s scope, it’s essential to know that visiting both sides is now straightforward and uneventful. Crossing the checkpoints often takes less time than the actual walk, making it more convenient for tourists to explore the northern part without exclusive entry from Turkey.
So, where should you go once you’re in Northern Cyprus? Let’s explore a few standout destinations:
Nicosia (Lefkoşa)
Nicosia holds the unique title of being Europe’s last divided capital. It’s a fascinating city worth visiting to grasp the complex relations between its two halves. Although separated by checkpoints, crossing on foot is hassle-free. Despite some military presence and barricades, the northern part of Nicosia offers plenty to see, including the Buyuk Han, Hamam, and Selimiye Mosque. Although less developed than the southern side, losing yourself in the vibrant streets and bazaars provides an enriching cultural experience.
Famagusta (Gazimağusa)
Famagusta is a gem, brimming with ancient ruins and captivating architecture. The walled city’s historical sites such as the Sinan Pasha Mosque (Church of St. Peter), Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (Cathedral of St. Nicholas), Royal Palace, and Othello Castle are must-visits. Wandering the city walls offers delightful views, especially from Othello Castle. A short drive to Varosha, a deserted beach resort since the 70s, reveals the stark contrast of thriving tourism and abandoned infrastructure, painting a poignant picture of the island’s history.
Kyrenia (Girne)
One of Cyprus’s oldest and most picturesque cities, Kyrenia boasts charming old streets and a scenic port. Visiting the Kyrenia Castle provides historical insights, but if pressed for time, other castles might be more rewarding. The port is especially beautiful at sunset, offering a perfect spot for people-watching and savoring the tranquil atmosphere. While tourist restaurants abound, you’re likely to find better value dining options elsewhere.
Karpass (Karpaz) Peninsula
A personal favorite, the Karpass Peninsula is remote and mesmerizing. The Apostolos Andreas Monastery, though under renovation, marks a site of significant interest. Scattered churches and monasteries, many abandoned post-partition, add to its historical allure. The peninsula is also home to inquisitive feral donkeys, survivors of the partition, who might curiously approach you during your visit.
Castles and Ruins
Northern Cyprus is home to stunning mountain castles, each with its own appeal. St. Hilarion Castle is the best preserved and frequently visited, offering breathtaking views. Buffavento Castle, though less maintained, rewards those who brave its treacherous road with spectacular vistas. Kantara Castle, less touristy, also promises impressive sights but isn’t essential if you’re short on time. To reach these locations, renting a vehicle is advisable, with St. Hilarion being a common stop on guided tours.
Bellapais Abbey
Located near Kyrenia, Bellapais Abbey is a well-preserved 13th-century treasure, surrounded by a charming area with restaurants and shops. Navigating the narrow roads can be a bit challenging, but the visit is worthwhile. The abbey, often accompanied by local cats, is a serene spot for exploration.
Salamis
On the eastern coast, Salamis features remarkably preserved Greek ruins dating back to the 11th or 12th century BC. Despite its remote location, it’s worth the trip for its historical significance and beauty. While accommodations and dining options are limited nearby, the ruins themselves are a highlight, reminiscent of sites like Umm Qais in Northern Jordan.
Practical Information
Travel to Northern Cyprus has significantly improved. Several border crossings are open for foot traffic, with Ercan Airport serving as the main entry point by air, though flights are restricted to routes between Turkey and Northern Cyprus. Note that driving is on the left side, which can surprise some visitors. For accommodations, Nicosia makes a convenient base, but spending nights in Kyrenia or Famagusta can also help break up travel. I stayed at the Cypriot Swallow Boutique Hotel in Nicosia and highly recommend it for a comfortable and enjoyable stay.
Northern Cyprus awaits with its hidden treasures, waiting to share its stories with the curious traveler.